Having visited Brazil four times, I’ve fallen in love with its vibrant culture, delicious food, and stunning beaches. Among my favorite destinations is Recife, a coastal paradise where every corner offers something special. From the warm, welcoming people to the rich culinary delights and breathtaking seaside views, Recife has given me some of my best travel memories. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning for more, this ultimate guide will help you make the most of your time in this enchanting city. Join me as I share the highlights and hidden gems of Recife, Brazil’s coastal jewel.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Located on Brazil’s northeastern coast, Recife is the capital and largest city in the state of Pernambuco. With a population of over 1.6 million in the city proper, Recife is one of the largest urban areas in Brazil.
Recife was founded in the 16th century by the Portuguese, who built the city along the Capibaribe River. During colonial times, Recife was one of Brazil’s most important ports, exporting sugar produced on the surrounding sugarcane plantations.
Today, Recife is known as an important industrial and commercial center, as well as a popular tourist destination. The city features a tropical climate and is surrounded by beautiful beaches, rivers, islands, and lagoons.
Some of Recife’s most notable landmarks and neighborhoods include:
- Old Town (Centro): Historic part of the city featuring colonial architecture, churches, government buildings, and art museums.
- Boa Viagem: Upscale beachfront neighborhood with high-rise hotels, restaurants, and shopping.
- Olinda: Historic colonial town north of Recife, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Porto de Galinhas: Popular beach town with coral reef pools, about 60 km south of Recife.
The best time to visit Recife is during the drier months between September and December when average temperatures are around 28°C (82°F). The rainy season lasts from March to August which can see heavy downpours.
Getting to Recife
Recife is served by several airports, but the closest major international airport is Recife/Guararapes–Gilberto Freyre International Airport (REC). This airport has direct flights from cities across Brazil, as well as major airline hubs in North America, South America, and Europe.
The airport is located in the south of Recife, about 11 km from the city center. There are several options for transportation from the airport to the city:
- Taxi: Taxis are available right outside the airport exit. A taxi to downtown Recife costs around R$50-70 and the ride takes about 20-30 minutes depending on traffic. Be sure to only take official, metered taxis from the taxi stand.
- Uber: Uber is very popular and often the most affordable option. The fare to central Recife is around R$30-40. The app works as normal – just request a ride and meet your driver outside arrivals.
- Bus: City bus #040 goes between the airport and the city center every 30 minutes from 5:00am to 11:00pm daily. The bus costs around R$3.50 and takes about 1 hour. The bus stop is just outside the arrivals hall.
- Shuttle Services: Private shuttle services like Recife Airport Transfer offer door-to-door shared rides for around R$25-35 per person. This can be booked in advance online.
For getting around Recife itself, the city has an extensive bus system, taxis, rideshares, bicycles, and even boats. More details on transportation within Recife later in this guide.
Where to Stay in Recife
Recife offers a wide variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. The city has hotels ranging from international chains to boutique hotels, as well as hostels, apartments, and guesthouses. Choosing the right area to stay depends on your interests and travel style.
Boa Viagem is the main beachside neighborhood and a popular area to stay for tourists. It has the widest range of hotels from high-end resorts like Pestana and Atlante Plaza to budget hotels and hostels. The beachfront here is lined with tall apartment blocks and hotels. It’s convenient for the beach but not as charming as Old Recife. Recommended places to stay include Hotel Atlante Plaza, Golden Tulip Recife Boa Viagem, and Che Lagarto Hostel Boa Viagem.
Old Recife is the most interesting historic district and convenient for sightseeing. Charming boutique hotels and pousadas converted from historic buildings are found around here. The area can be noisy but provides an authentic Recife experience. Try Hotel Central or Azul Fusca Boutique Hotel in Old Recife.
Santo Amaro is an upscale residential neighborhood west of Boa Viagem, known for its pristine beach. It has several luxury hotel resorts like Othon Palace and Nannai Beach Resort with private beach access. The area is more secluded and relaxed than Boa Viagem.
Santo Antônio is an affordable area to stay north of Old Recife, with more budget hotels and guesthouses. It provides easy access to both Old Recife and Boa Viagem. Decent options include Hotel São Domingos and Recife Palace Hotel.
Pina is a peninsula that’s home to Recife’s hub of art, culture, and nightlife. Staying here provides proximity to museums, live music venues, and the vibrant bar scene. The neighborhood accommodations tend to be apartments and guesthouses, like the artsy Oficina Ceramica.
Top Things to Do in Recife
Recife is the capital and largest city of the northeastern Brazilian state of Pernambuco. The city has a vibrant culture and many interesting attractions for visitors.
Visit Historic Old Recife
Recife Antigo (Old Recife) is the historic heart of the city, with colorful colonial buildings along the riverside. The main streets are Rua do Bom Jesus, Rua da Guia and Rua do Apolo. Here you’ll find art galleries, shops, restaurants and bars. The Paço do Frevo is a museum dedicated to the local frevo music and dance. Other highlights include the Casa da Cultura, Teatro Santa Isabel and Igreja da Sé cathedral.
Relax on Boa Viagem Beach
The most popular beach in Recife is Praia de Boa Viagem, with over 7km of beautiful sandy shoreline. The water is warm and the waves are strong, so it’s great for surfing and bodyboarding. There are also reef pools that form natural swimming areas. The beachfront is lined with high-rise hotels and apartments, plus many cafes, bars and restaurants.
Explore Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand
This is a unique cultural attraction located in an old brick factory 15km west of central Recife. It’s the workshop of famous local artist Francisco Brennand, known for his surrealist ceramic sculptures. Visitors can tour the extensive grounds and see exhibits of his imaginative artwork. There’s also a leafy sculpture garden and small cafe.
Take a Day Trip to Olinda
The colorful colonial town of Olinda is a must-see side trip, just 15km north of Recife. It’s set on a hillside overlooking the coast, with winding streets, historic churches, art galleries and craft shops. Major sights include the Gothic Igreja da Sé, Convento de São Francisco and Mercado de Artesanato. Olinda is renowned for its creative music and carnival celebrations.
Visit Museums
Recife has several excellent museums. The Museu Cais do Sertão showcases folk art and cultural artifacts from the Northeast region. Museu do Homem do Nordeste has anthropological exhibits on the local population. Museu da Cidade do Recife traces the history of the city. Other interesting museums cover football, cinema, science, Abolition and more.
There are many other cultural and historical attractions to discover around Recife. The city offers something for all interests.
Recife’s Food Scene
Recife is known for its delicious regional cuisine featuring seafood, tropical fruits, and African influences. Here are some of the top foods and places to try when visiting Recife:
Local Dishes and Specialties to Try
- Moqueca: This hearty Brazilian fish stew is made with palm oil, coconut milk, onions, tomatoes, and your choice of seafood. It’s flavored with coriander, peppers, and dendê oil. Try moqueca capixaba, the Espírito Santo state version, at Restaurante Leite.
- Tapioca: Fresh tapioca crepes are a popular street food in Recife. They are often filled with cheese, coconut, chocolate, fruit, or meat. Sample sweet and savory tapioca at the Tapioca do Chico food cart.
- Carne de sol: Air-dried salted beef is a Northeastern specialty. It’s usually served with beans, rice, potatoes, eggs, and salad greens. A great carne de sol plate can be found at Casa do Norte restaurant.
- Acarajé: These deep-fried black-eyed pea fritters are a classic Bahian snack now popular in Recife. They are stuffed with vatapá paste, shrimp, and spices. Try acarajé from the street carts in Boa Viagem.
Top Restaurants and Cafes
- Oficina do Sabor: Upscale Brazilian cuisine served in a restored colonial mansion. Try the seafood moqueca and regional desserts.
- Restaurante Leite: Specializing in contemporary Espírito Santo dishes like moqueca capixaba fish stew. Outdoor garden seating available.
- Casa do Norte: Traditional Northeastern Brazilian country cooking in a casual setting. Known for excellent carne de sol.
- Bargaço Bistro: Trendy bistro fusing French techniques with Brazilian ingredients. Creative cocktails and great weekend brunch.
- Cafehaus Da Praça: Charming German-style cafe in a 1920s building with sandwiches, coffee, and desserts. Lovely patio.
Recife’s cuisine showcases fresh seafood, tropical fruits, African influences, and authentic regional specialties. Be sure to try moqueca fish stew, tapioca crepes, carne de sol beef, and acarajé fritters when visiting this coastal city.
Recife’s Nightlife and Entertainment
Recife has a vibrant nightlife scene with plenty of options for bars, clubs, live music, and cultural performances. The historic Boa Vista neighborhood is one of the top nightlife districts, with a concentration of bars and clubs that get lively late into the night.
- Burburinho – A hip bar known for its creative cocktails and exposed brick interior. There’s often live music on weekends.
- Bargaço – A lively club that hosts DJs and bands playing pop, rock, and electronic music. The dance floors get packed on weekends.
- Boteco São Bento – An atmospheric little bar in an old colonial building, with outdoor patio seating and live samba music.
- Maria Maria – A multi-level club and lounge with a spacious rooftop deck overlooking the city. Different DJs and music styles each night.
In terms of live music, Recife has a great local music scene. The streets of Bairro do Recife come alive at night with outdoor bars hosting live regional music like forró, frevo, and maracatu. Some venues to catch a show include Teatro Barreto Júnior and Sala de Reboco.
Cultural performances are also popular in Recife. You can see live capoeira demonstrations at various locales, or check the schedule at theaters like Teatro de Santa Isabel and Teatro Luiz Mendonça to see dance, theater, and music shows. The city’s vibrant Afro-Brazilian culture is on full display.
No matter what you’re in the mood for, Recife has an exciting nightlife and entertainment scene to offer visitors. The historic city center neighborhoods are compact and walkable, making it easy to bar hop and experience the city’s vibrant cultural offerings.
Shopping in Recife
Recife is a shopper’s paradise, with a wide variety of markets, malls, and shops selling everything from handicrafts to international brands.
Markets
For a quintessential Recife shopping experience, head to one of the city’s bustling public markets. The Feira de São José is the largest and most famous market, selling fresh produce, meat, spices, regional handicrafts like lace and leather goods, and more. Bargaining is expected here. The Mercado de Casa Amarela is great for handicrafts like ceramics and woven baskets. The Feira do Recife Antigo has stalls with art, clothing, and souvenirs in the historic district.
Malls
Recife has several modern, air-conditioned shopping malls packed with both Brazilian and international stores. Shopping RioMar is the largest mall, with over 400 shops, a movie theater, and even an aquarium inside. Shopping Boa Vista and Shopping Plaza are other excellent malls to spend an afternoon browsing top brands like Havaianas, O Boticário, and more.
Souvenirs
Bring home a piece of Recife by picking up some traditional handicrafts and souvenirs. Look for ceramic figurines, leather sandals, woven baskets, lace table linens, hammocks, and colorful accessories accented with seashells. The government-run Casa da Cultura de Pernambuco shop has the best selection of quality handicrafts and souvenirs from around the region.
Street Shopping
For cheaper souvenirs, shop the stalls along the beachfront Avenida Boa Viagem. Vendors sell inexpensive jewelry, sunglasses, sarongs, and knickknacks. You can often bargain here. The Feira Hippie market on Sundays is also great for souvenirs like handmade soaps, paintings, clothing, and more.
Day Trips from Recife
Recife is a great base to take day trips to nearby attractions. Here are some of the top day trips from Recife:
Olinda
Olinda is a colorful historic town located just north of Recife. It’s designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved colonial architecture. Wander the cobblestone streets and admire the pastel-colored buildings, ornate churches, art galleries, and museums. Climb up to Alto da Sé hill for panoramic views. Olinda is also known for its creative arts scene and carnival celebrations. It’s an easy day trip, just 15km from central Recife.
Porto de Galinhas
Porto de Galinhas is one of Brazil’s most beautiful beach destinations, located about 60km south of Recife. It’s known for its crystalline pools formed by reefs, lined by palm trees and white sand. Go for a swim, relax on the beach, try stand-up paddleboarding, or go snorkeling to see the underwater life. The village itself has a laidback, boho vibe with boutique shops and restaurants. Spend a day soaking up the sun and enjoying the tropical paradise.
Fernando de Noronha
For a more adventurous day trip, take a flight to the remote Fernando de Noronha archipelago, located 345km offshore. The archipelago is renowned for its pristine beaches, exotic wildlife, and world-class diving and snorkeling. Explore the islands by 4×4, hike the lush interior, relax on secluded beaches, snorkel with sea turtles, or watch spinner dolphins. Due to its fragile ecosystem, visitor numbers are restricted so plan ahead. It’s a long day trip but worth it to experience this ecological wonder.
Traveling Around Recife
Getting around Recife is fairly easy thanks to its public transportation system. Here are some tips for navigating the city:
Public Transportation
- Buses – Recife has an extensive bus system that can get you pretty much anywhere in the city. The main bus terminal is called Terminal Integrado de Passageiros (TIP). Buses are very affordable, with fares starting at R$2.70.
- Metro – Recife’s metro system is small but efficient. It has two lines – the Centro metro line and the VLT metro line. The metro is air-conditioned and a great way to beat the heat. Fares start at R$1.60.
- Taxis – Taxis in Recife are another good option, especially late at night. Fares start at R$4.20. Make sure to only take official registered taxis and ask for the meter to be turned on to avoid overcharging.
- Rideshares – Uber and 99 (Brazilian version of Uber) operate in Recife. This can be a convenient and affordable way to get around.
Safety Tips
- As with most big cities, it’s best to avoid deserted areas and flashing expensive items like jewelry and phones.
- Only take registered taxis and avoid unlicensed taxis. Ask your hotel to call you an official taxi.
- Buses can get very crowded. Keep valuables in your front pocket and don’t leave bags unattended.
- When waiting for the bus or metro, avoid using your phone excessively.
- Use common sense and caution at nighttime. Stick to well-lit major streets.
- Only exchange money at authorized locations like banks or exchange offices.
Following basic precautions will ensure a safe visit in Recife. The city’s public transportation makes it easy to explore all the great things to see and do.
Useful Information for Visiting Recife
When to Visit
The best time to visit Recife is during the dry season from September to December. The temperatures are warm but not too hot, with an average high around 86°F (30°C). The rainy season lasts from March to July, when temperatures are slightly cooler but rain is frequent. Expect hot and humid weather during the peak summer months of December to February.
Language
The main language in Recife is Portuguese. English is not widely spoken, so brush up on some key Portuguese phrases before your trip. Learn how to say hello, thank you, please, and ask for directions. Carry a pocket Portuguese phrasebook for additional help.
Electricity
The standard voltage in Brazil is 127V with plug types A, B, and C. Bring a universal travel adapter to charge your electronics.
Safety
Like many large cities, Recife has areas that are safer than others. Use common sense precautions like avoiding walking alone at night and not displaying expensive items like cameras and jewelry. Only take licensed yellow taxis and avoid unmarked cabs. Keep a photocopy of your passport on you rather than the original. Overall, Recife is as safe as most major metropolitan areas if you use good judgment.
Conclusion
Recife, with its stunning beaches, vibrant culture, and delectable cuisine, offers an unforgettable experience. Whether you’re soaking up the sun on its pristine shores, savoring local delicacies, or exploring its rich history, every moment in this coastal paradise is a treasure. With four visits and countless cherished memories, I can confidently say that Recife has something special for everyone. Use this guide to make the most of your time in this enchanting city, and create your own unforgettable memories in Brazil’s coastal jewel. Happy travels!
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